Furniture Tutorial #7

8 designs are included this time around, all taken from my Bjarn-dar Keep model.

Let’s start off with the dining hall table. Plate with clip, 1×1 plates, and 1×2 tiles make up the legs.

Which are then used to connect the last dark brown 1×4 tiles for the table top.

The bottom side of the plates gives a neat texture, or if you prefer, you can leave the 1×2 tiles facing outward.

Next is a very simple shield rack. The new 1×2 plate with centered clip work perfectly to hold shields with horizontal handles.

Minifigure neck brackets are an incredibly useful piece for sideways connections in small spaces. A small bench uses them to attach the legs.

The hollow stud of the neck bracket is attached to the tube of the tile.

And here is the completed bench.

I borrowed this design from Brick Surgeon, which he used in his Secret Door creation.

One of the 2×2 jumper plates is used for the base with friends flowers for the legs.

Then the technic brick is attached to the jumper plate.

The other jumper sandwiches the technic brick and the bucket handle is slid into the bottom of the brick.

Then a dish on top can be added, as a nice platter.

A brick built chest can be a nice change from prefab ones, and allow you to have different size chests. The assembly of 1×2 plates and plate with handle goes in between the 1×1 bricks and brick with stud.

A few dark brown tiles are then attached to the brick modified with stud.

Lastly some cheese slopes and a 1×2 tile top off the chest. If you aren’t going to have it placed directly against a wall, you could add dark brown tiles to the back side as well.

The new antler piece makes for some ornately carved table legs in this design.

The antlers fit into the bottom of the 1×3 plates and while the connection isn’t super strong, it stays together pretty well.

Here is a little sideboard that uses a 2×3 plate to hold everything together. The 1×1 round plate in the back 1×1 brick allows it to be attached to the floor of your model, but isn’t necessary otherwise.

Some lightsaber hilts are added on both sides to complete the piece of furniture.

Lastly we have a neat bed. The new plate with stud are what make this design work, and you set them up as shown to start.

I used plate with rail, plate with clip, and a bar with some cones and round plates for the headboard. But there are plenty of other options you could use with the same design.

The headboard is then attached to the end of the bed.

Two 2×2 plates are added underneath the sets of 1×3 curved slopes and 2×2 bricks that make up the pillow.

Lots of different 2×2 slope variations could work for the sides of the bed covers. The brick modified with stud attached here will be necessary to connect the foot board of the bed.

A 2×4 plate, 4×4 plate, and some tiles finish off the middle of the bed.

Again, you can make your foot board as fancy or plain as you like.

Let us know if you have any questions about the designs shown here, or if there are any techniques you would like to see a tutorial on in the future!